Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Machu Picchu: Chapter 3, In Which We Ascend

At 5:00 a.m. we woke up, and at 5:20 we were at the SAS owned hotel meeting the group, the guides, and leaving behind the duffel bags we had been given to put our belongings in to send ahead with the chaskeys.  The bags could weigh a maximum of 9 kilos, including our rented sleeping bags and mats.  This left us with more or less 6 kilos of belongings.  Having only brought a total of about 6 kilos with me for the whole trip, this did not pose a problem for me. I put some sunscreen, 2 granola bars, a water bottle, my wallet, and my passport in my little day pack (kindly lent by Julia), and sent the rest on. This way on the hike I was carrying maybe 5 pounds, total. My strategy of packing nothing was working well.  It was the only hope I had of survival. Everyone else was carrying between 15 and 40 pounds.  I hoped that this would bring them down to my level.  

It did not.

We drove about 45 minutes to a breakfast spot where I carefully checked all items for potential death carrying properties.  Most of the offerings passed muster. We purchased coca leaves, large plastic rain bags, and water bottles, and continued on our way towards Ollantaytambo.  

During the bus ride I was filled with Morning Hate for everyone and everything and wouldn't speak, so J2 started a conversation with one of the guides sitting near us.   They spoke of many things until eventually I was ready to speak like a human again, at which point I told him I didn't expect to live to see the end of our trip.  He took this very seriously and started to become concerned that I would become a legal hazard.  

"NO!" he said. "No no. No.  You will not die. No. Don't do that. You are going to be fine. Do not die on this trip."

We arrived at the start of the trek around 8 a.m., showed our passports to some officials, took some photos, and headed on our way. 

The first day was not the one most talked about by those warning me of the horrors awaiting, but it was steep enough and challenging enough for me for sure. After only two hours I was pretty much maxed out physically, and we still had 10 of our 14 kilometers to go. The chaskeys, on the other hand, ran past us at intervals, having started long behind us and needing to finish long before us while each carrying 25 kilos of luggage and equipment.  They raced up the mountain with this weight to set up a tent and set places for us for lunch each day, and to cook gourmet 5 course meals before our arrival.  Many of us were incredulous. 

"How can do they do this physically?" we tried to ask through labored breathing. 

"They start as children," our guide told us. "They live in the mountains but go to school in the towns below.  They have to run there and back every day."

This seemed ridiculous, but I didn't have the breath to argue. 


As everyone can guess, I was not in the front of this group. I was not quite in the middle. BUT I WAS NOT LAST. I was not. I was NEVER LAST
Not last. 

I was. Not. Last. Ever.

Okay???

Lunch time was mid afternoon in a beautiful grove with some not-the-worst-toilets-ever in a tent with beautifully set places and little stools and a multi-course lunch.  I rejected many foods for their possible death properties even though theoretically a licensed tour group that takes Americans all year round should be pretty safe.  CONSTANT VIGILANCE, my friends.  Never trust a cucumber past the Texas border!! Mayonnaise? NOPE. Tomato? NO THANK YOU. I was a diarrhea free zone! 

While expertly deflecting Disease and Death, I got to know some of our other travelers a little better.  Were a few Americans, two Canadians, and a group of 7 Chinese. We never really learned much about them because mostly they kept to themselves and spoke Chinese.  

After lunch we continued upwards. As people forged ahead I had plenty of time to walk a solitary journey and contemplate all of the terrible pain I was in. As we moved forward, every 2 hours or so our guide would stop us all to point out ancient ruins and other Incan related beauty.  

Eventually we made it to our first campsite.  I was NOT the last person to arrive.  J2, it must be said, was the FIRST to arrive, by a long shot. She may have a career as a chaskey. It was demoralizing to some of the rest of us who might not have been last but were perhaps 13th by a fair amount. 

Tents were all set up for us, including a dining tent where we were given snack and tea.  Snack was popcorn and cookies, and the tea was amazing, especially as it was pretty cold outside. This particular campsite was advertised as having a shower.  Having not washed my hair at the hostel due to the cold, and with another 6 days ahead of me, I decided to brave the shower which cost $1.50 per use and was SWORN to have hot water.  

I was the first to brave the shower.  I handed over my money, grabbed my beautiful new camping towel, and stepped into the dirt encrusted little stall and took a moment to contemplate the mosquitoes congregating in various corners and around the drain. I started to shut the door but as I did realized there was no light.  I walked back out and asked the shower owner where the light was.  "No light," he told me. At first I started to grab my headlamp, but then I realized the shower was probably not the greatest place for a headlamp's well-being.  So I got back in the shower in the total darkness, felt around for the water chain, and was immediately doused in the freezing cold waters of the Andes.  "Hot" apparently to Peruvians just means "not physically frozen into ice quite yet." Combined with the 45 degree temperature of the outdoors, this quickly climbed the charts to make onto the Top Five Worst Showers I Have Taken Around the World. 

Quickly, the previous top 5 were:

1. The first shower I took in Bolivia upon coming down from the Death Journey through the mountains. I begged a stranger to use her shower which turned out to be a nozzle hanging over the toilet.  I was given a broom to hang onto to in order to continuously sweep water into a drain in the center of the floor as I showered, with the windows open, in temperatures of 30-35 degrees, in water that was just barely not frozen while simultaneously trying not to faint, vomit, or poop uncontrollably. 

2. Upon returning from Iceland to France where I stopped in Chateaulin to visit Alexa's home in the boarding house of her school, only to discover the heat and of course hot water broken in 40 degree weather whereupon I was forced to boil water in an electric kettle repeatedly to fill a bucket, stand in the middle of the bathroom, and dump all of the hot water over my head in one swift movement.

3. The shower in the hostel in Greece which was in a co-ed bathroom in which the shower stalls had doors that were not made for people of any human proportions I have yet seen on this earth which only barely covered your bits on the lower and upper ends provided no one decided to walk especially close to your shower or make any effort to peer in from the next stall.  Additionally hot water cost a Euro, which had to be deposited in a little box outside the bathroom which somehow connected to a certain shower.  So if you pick shower 3, you go outside, deposit a Euro in box 3 at which point hot water starts pouring out of shower 3 so you RUN TO IT because you only have 5 minutes of water, throwing your towel off as you sprint and hoping no one notices. Please don't forget that this was during February one day after a freak snow blizzard in a hostel that mostly DID NOT HAVE A ROOF.  The bedrooms and the showers had sort-of roofs, but they weren't fully attached to the walls so while it kept snow out of the beds, it did nothing for the temperatures.  And 5 minutes was not enough for my shampooing so I spent two days in Athens with the un-rinsed shampoo in my hair causing half my head of hair to randomly stick up in solid masses because all I had that morning was a single Euro coin. 

4. The shower in my host family's apartment in Toulouse.  This was just a repeated offense over the course of 6 months.  This was not actually a shower, this was a bathtub with a shower nozzle that didn't work most of the time so I had to constantly scrunch on my back under the bathtub faucet trying to wash my hair all winter where, again, in 35-40 degrees, the family ALWAYS left the windows open, and there was rarely any hot water. 

5. In London at a hostel a man tried to get into the shower with me. This had less to do with the shower itself and more to do with the emotional trauma sustained and the fact that I lay awake with a knife in my hand that night, but still. It goes on the list. Don't worry though! No Danielles were physically harmed in any way in the making of this Worst Shower Episode. 

This was my list before Peru.  But due to the dirt, the mosquitoes, the total lack of light and not being able to see anything at all, combined with the cold of the air and the cold of the water as well as the fatigue (remember I hadn't slept yet? I remember), the shower of this night definitely bumped #2 from its place.  And it fought hard for #1.

Only one other person tried the shower after that, and he didn’t have anything good to say about it either.

Once I had gotten clothing on and taped eight Hot Hands packets to various parts of my body, I was able to enjoy the sight of the night sky, which was STUNNING.  Maybe one of the top 10 most beautiful things I have seen alive in this world. With absolutely 0 light pollution for billions of miles, every single star visible from Earth lit up the sky so that there was almost more light than dark. There was no way to pick out constellations because every scrap of sky was covered in bright points. It was hard to believe.

Dinner was equally marvelous as lunch with its 5 courses and dessert and tea and good conversations, and soon it was time for bed at 8 p.m. because we were going to be roused at 5 a.m. to eat breakfast and continue climbing the mountain.


To come in Chapter 4:  Dead Woman's Pass, utter despair, an oxygen tank, VICTORY

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